A Journey Around Hidden Catalonia
From medieval times in the rough bastion of monks
to the luxury of some remarkable hotels,
Isabel Conway enjoyed the magic
and rich history of Spain
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| Aiguablava view from my Paradore: built on cliffs jutting out into the Mediterranean |
Back in medieval days the monks of Sant Pere de Casserres had a remarkably laid back attitude to alcohol consumption, I later discover. “It isn’t recommended that monks drink more than 5 litres (of wine) a day” the rule book for their Abbey decreed. For the record, each monk here in this 11th century Catalan bastion of Cluny received a guaranteed daily wine allowance of one litre.
“That was the only way to stay warm in winter, they drank their wine warm but it surely kept them happy also”, chuckles our knowledgeable local guide Oriol Montero.
We follow a rough stony pathway to reach the chapter house of the abbey, planned more than 1,000 years ago that took a hundred years to construct, towering over a bend of the Ter river. Here only young monks were allowed to eat meat (from two legged animals that somehow included rabbit...rules could be slightly re-arranged!) at Sant Pere de Casserres.
A Monk’s day started with prayers at 2am. New entrants –traditionally the second sons of noble families (the first son having inherited the estates while the third usually became a Knight) knocked at the abbey gate and sat down to wait, often up to a week. So, you could say, vocations were well and truly tested before aspiring novices were admitted, to spend the rest of their lives in prayer, contemplation and onerous work, removed from the outside world.
The medieval drinking habits of these monks was just one little ‘gem’ among many during my short exploration of the real Catalonia, one that is often hidden away but so worth the hunt just when the autumn leaves were turning gold in these parts and the November sun glinted but with diminishing power.
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| From Montserrat: the view over the countryside |
Our four day tour took in the unique state run hotels situated in remarkable buildings and locations called paradores in different parts of Catalonia. The beautiful surprising city of Girona on our last evening was the jewel in the crown. We also discovered stunning seaside towns like Aiguablava, the hilly mysterious village of Begur and Figueres, the last train stop before the French border and birthplace of Salvador Dali. In between we skirted the edges of national parks and explored the depths of the salt mountain at Cardona.
I am of that generation which caught our first sunburn on the crowded sands and around hotel pool sides of Lloret de Mar on the Costa Brava back in those early eighties youthful fun filled evenings of loud disco music and jugs overflowing with Sangria.
My memories are of touring boulevards lined with ‘English breakfast’ boards and loud flashy discos, oblivious of a spectacular coastline on the doorstep where the land grows rocky, reckless and elemental,ignorant of the gastronomic delight of tapas, delicious seafood and much more.
An hour after arrival in Barcelona our bus is labouring upwards and the weirdly shaped crags of rock at Montserrat, one of the most spectacular of all Spain’s natural sights startlingly appear. Perched on a hairpin incline Montserrat has views on a clear day down to the Costa Brava on the front side and at the rear in the far distance the snow capped Pyrenees hug the horizon.
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| World famous boys choir: L'Escolania at Montserrat monastery |
The oldest music school in Europe nurtures the talents of world famous choir L’Escolania within Montserrat monastery. The young boy sopranos look like cherubic angels in their white as snow surplices.
The church is crowded for the 1pm performance of the choir and soon their extraordinarily pure voices rise up above the nave. But it is for La Moreneta (the Black Virgin) that most come, forming long queues to mount the staircase to kiss the icon. Second only to Santiago de Compostela as a place of pilgrimage, the Black Virgin is an enduring symbol of Catalunya, independence, resilience and pride. She has been credited with countless miracles throughout the years.
On another short pilgrimage, a night Porter points me in the general direction of the haunted wing of the Parador de Cardona, 80 kms from Barcelona where we spend the night. Staircases of time worn stone and confusing corridors beckon. My late night ghost hunt eventually ends in a shadowy court yard the centre point of a maze of floors and dead ends without a sighting. Doomed beautiful young maiden Adales was banished by her father to a prison wing of the castle to separate her from an unsuitable lover centuries ago. She died in her turret of a broken heart and both staff and guests, not to mention ghost busters have reported sightings of her.
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| Montserrat: one of the most spectacular of Spain's natural sights |
There are 97 Paradors – a network of state run luxury hotels - spread across Spain, created back in 1928 with the twofold purpose of enhancing tourism and at the same time preserving buildings of national and artistic heritage. Some were abandoned medieval castles, palaces, Moorish Forts and monasteries.
Restored to their former glory these monuments possess the comforts of the 21st Century, yet allow you to experience the magic and rich history of Spain.
Castle-Paradore Cardona, a imposing 9th century castle overlooks the little town of the same name and was the last Catalan stronghold to fall to the Bourbons in the war of the Spanish Succession. The castle is still recognised as an emblem to Catalan nationalism. Slapped against steep hills with moats and turrets it oversees a huge salt mine exploited since Roman times and still working.
The salt mine with extraordinary natural sculptures of salt inside are also a tourist attraction and you can explore a fraction of the 300 kms of galleries, some bigger than a couple of football fields put together.
In the foothills of the Pyrenees, an hour’s drive inland from Barcelona and near the provincial city of Vic we discover a contrasting paradore, this one modelled on a 19th century Catalan mansion. Paradore de Vic-Sau stands serene above a lake hiding a ancient Bell tower that re-emerges in times of drought.
Vic, the provincial nearby city, reached via forested twisting back roads, offers a mix of antiquity, a notable cathedral with an Episcopal museum crammed with Romanesque and Gothic Catalan treasures. The main square is decorated with frescoes and lined with restored Romanesque buildings while old cobbled pedestrian streets of tempting little food shops offer all manner of regional produce.
My favourite Paradore during this long weekend packed with surprises was romantic Aiguablava built on cliffs jutting out into the Mediterranean with only seabirds for company. The hotel’s location is amazing and notices forbid walkers from venturing down pathways eaten away by erosion with a dizzying drop in front. The rain was beating down but I could not resist taking a long stairway down to a secluded golden stretch of golden sand.
Sadly it was our last evening, we had a plane to catch and only had time for a lightening tour of Girona, the city the Romans called Gerunda. By-passed by foreign visitors – much as Malaga used to be – in their rush to the Costas too often in the past thankfully people are waking up to Girona’s charms at last.
This interesting friendly city, easily walked with lovely restaurants, tapa bars and cafes, less than and an hour and a half by bus or train from Barcelona, stands on a fortress like hill high above the river Onyar.
Girona lost none of its mystery as we battled our way over footbridges peering at shadowy medieval buildings by slippery stairways in pouring rain. From Roman remains to Arab influences and then the Carrer de la Forca, its wet cobbles glistening, maze like laneways leading towards a Jewish heartland of the past it felt like being inside a living museum full of architectural treasures.
All we lacked was the comfort of that porron pitcher filled with Malvasia, the local sweet wine.!
Fact files
Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus.com) fly to Barcelona daily. MAP Travel, 36 Upper O’Connell Street Dublin 01-8783111, (www.maptravel.ie) are the official Ireland representative for the unique Paradors network , offering expert advice. They book accommodation and holidays from wine routes to world heritage cities routes, and pilgrim paths to a la carte options.
Overnight rates vary. Expect to pay between €70 and €110 per person per night for luxury accommodation including a substantial buffet breakfast featuring dozens of hot and cold breakfast tapas.
For further information
www.costabrava.org
www.spain.info
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| Theatre Museum Salvador Dali: the artist is interred beneath the floor close to his Cadillac |
Explore the rocky coast, sandy coves, lush plains and mountain scenery. Girona with a fine medieval centre is often overlooked by tourists. Begur and Palamos, contrasting coastal towns north of Lloret de Mar are hidden gems. Begur is known for the elaborate mansions built by locals who made their fortunes in Cuba and Latin America. Palamos draws on its reputation as a important commercial fishing port. Next to the wharf side fish auction a leading Catalan cook Lluis Planas (www.espaidelpeix.org) champions less well known fish with cooking demonstrations and classes and participants eat the fruits of their labours afterwards. Figueres on the northernmost stretch of the Costa Brava is home to zangy Theatre-Museum Salvador Dali. The artist is interred beneath the floor close to his Cadillac, awash with water on the inside, among the renowned exhibits.
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| A mid morning snack of almonds, plump raisons and Malvasia swee wine at Montserrat |
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| Breakfast taps at Castle Paradore Cardona Catalonia |
Cal Sastre Restaurant (www.calsastre.com) tucked away in the medieval village of Santa Pau, is worth a trek across the volcanic foothills of the Garroxta national park just for its famed cannelloni stuffed duck with truffle cream sauce. We enjoyed delicious tapas everywhere, notably Cardona and Aiguablava Paradores. Be sure also to take a detour to Vic for lunch at the belle époque CA L’U on Carrer de la Riera, 25 where time stands still and prices for beautifully prepared cuisine are cheap by top Irish restaurant standards.
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