Emirates Apart:
Sharjah and Dubai
Less than half an hour’s drive apart, says Isabel Conway, so near yet so far.
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| Isabel: suitably attired |
They are so near, but yet so far, the Emirates of Sharjah and Dubai, less than half an hour’s drive apart.
Of the seven United Arab Emirates, Abu Dhabi, the oil capitol is the seriously rich one, Dubai is the holiday desert playground with the highest building on earth while next door neighbor Sharjah capital of Islamic Culture for 2014 is the place to go for authenticity and close encounters with the region’s traditions and history.
A few days exploring Sharjah followed by the hedonistic pleasures of Dubai offer fascinating contrasts in how the emirates of the UAE are evolving and appealing to tourists with differing tastes from abroad.
‘Enough of concrete, let us build the human being’ is the motto of Sharjah’s ruler Dr Sheikh Sultan Bin Muhammad Al-Qasimi. His words were barely uttered no doubt when yet another OTT luxury hotel, theme park and shopping mall was shooting up 30 minutes down the highway in Dubai.
“You won’t find many holidaying Scandinavians in Sharjah because of the ban on alcohol there and if you hear Irish accents that will be the oil rig guys rushing down to a Dubai hotel bar to get hammered”, I had been warned in advance.
Non muslim visitors bound for Sharjah may discreetly purchase alcohol in the duty free shop situated in the arrivals hall at Dubai airport and drink it privately keeping bottles out of sight of hotel bedroom cleaning staff when they reach their destination, I was advised. The prospect of having to drink alone in secret was unappealing so I by-passed occasions of alcoholic sin, passing a extensive duty free shop with tempting prices as I set off for my detox Sharjah style.
A few days later back in Dubai a well known Irish ex-pat Patsi Collins from Millstreet, Co Cork who runs a string of successful hair and beauty salons and has lived in the Emirate for more than a decade invites me to the Irish village for some “proper chilling out”.
All around us were visitors and exiles from Ireland enjoying the craic at a re-construction of a Irish country pub,including ducks waddling around and traditional music. Patsi bemoaned the fact that not enough visitors to Dubai take the trouble to leave beaches, lavish pool sides and shopping malls to visit the stunning desert scenery beyond the city.
‘Decency & Public Conduct’
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| Al-Markazi (Central Souk) in Sharjah: sumptuous gold jewelry, carpets, scarves |
At one of Sharjah’s beach side hotels catering mainly to Russian and German visitors (who knock back the alcohol discreetly out of public gaze the guest relations manager reveals) I picked up a little booklet entitled ‘Decency & Public Conduct’. It sets out codes for male and female dress. A man is not allowed to display a bare chest or wear short pants in public in Sharjah, I read, and a woman is considered to be indecently dressed if she wears clothing above the knee or” tight or transparent garments that emphasize the body”. A man and woman “who are not connected within a legally acceptable relationship may not be found alone in suspicious circumstances”. These are not guidelines, they are rules upheld by the law.
There is no better place to start a further discovery of Islamic values and traditions in Sharjah than in the majestic Al Noor Mosque. Before entering we are given a black abaya (a long loose robe) to wear and requested to cover our hair. The resident Muezzin who has demonstrated the washing ritual for men before entering the Mosque begins the call to prayer in a powerful melodious voice which resonates through the vast building. A smiling duo Sherifa and Nora, dressed, as are most Emirati women, from head to toe in black explain Islamic customs, beliefs and culture.
Marriages in the UAE are still traditionally orchestrated and arranged by families, we hear during a cultural understanding session at Emerati Handicrafts in Sharjah old town. The building whose walls are of coral stone, is in a historic district in the throes of a called ‘Heart of Sharjah’ to restore it to times before the oil boom craze for building high modern office eyesores.
“Open Doors Open Minds”
Away from Dubai’s famous theme parks meanwhile you will find The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for cultural Understanding (www.cultures.ae) promoting “open doors open minds” where visitors learn about Emirati customs culture, religion and etiquette. The welcome is warm and visitors are invited to lunch after a discussion and demonstration of henna painting chaired by a important looking man wearing the white full length dishdasha and ghutra. A complimentary feast of beautifully prepared dishes is laid out on carpets and sitting cross legged on the floor everyone tucks in, agreeing that it is a nice touch and few countries take the trouble to extend such hospitality to strangers.
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| A complimentary feast: few countries take the trouble to extend such hospitality to strangers |
Thanks to a strategic position on both the Arabian Gulf and the Gulf of Oman Sharjah has always been an important trading post. Today the leading UAE manufacturing hub it is full of contrasts, gleaming skyscrapers, impressive traditional architecture, highways cutting through the desert floor and craggy Hajar mountain passes. An international airport handles the bulk of trade.
Yet simple weather beaten wooden dhows sail to Iran, India the African coast and beyond from Sharjah. One has just arrived from Iran carrying salt and will re-load mountains of used bicycles from Europe, parts of crashed vehicles, crates of red bull and plastic garden furniture.
Sharjah’s port, the gold and spices souks are a smaller version of what you will find in Dubai. The markets around the Deira side of Dubai Creek are where you will find the beating heart of the emirate, unchanged from former times as long as you ignore the latest high rise buildings mushrooming along the Creek side.
A proper exploration of Sharjah includes the East Coast. We did some kayaking on the edge of ancient Mangroves at Kalba Creek (see www.adventure.ae), home to nesting sea turtles and rare bird life where an eco tourism project to re-introduce extinct species and save Sharjah’s nature for future generations has just begun.
Dune bashing, falconry displays, camel races and romantic barbeques
Sharjah and Dubai feature all kinds of tours which take in the desert attractions of dune bashing, falconry displays, camel races and romantic barbeques under the starry desert sky.
The new Al Majaz waterfront in Sharjah is a favorite spot for romantic (impeccably behaved)courting couples strolling in the parks admiring dancing fountains. Meanwhile in Dubai the courting couples and large numbers of visiting tourists from Europe and other Gulf states have taken to another type of activity.
They crowd the world’s largest indoor ski and snow park terrain, day and night enjoying hot chocolate in a faux Austrian alpine chalet and other delights as temperatures outside soar. The location of amazing Ski Dubai (www.skidxb.com) inside the vast Mall of the Emirates shopping complex adds to that sense of ‘you couldn’t make it up.
Qasba’s walkways in Sharjah are colonial style, shaded by palms and framed by arched bridges over the water. In contrast Jumeirah beach walk in Dubai is packed with over 330 retail and restaurant options.
Fact file
Getting there:
Direct daily flights, Dublin to Dubai (3O minutes away from Sharjah)with award winning Emirates airlines (www.emirates.com) Sharjah Commerce and Tourism Authority. www.sharjahtourism.ae For Dubai see also www.etihadairways,com and www.dubaitourism.ae
Where to stay in Sharjah: Radisson Beach Resort (www.radissonblu.com/resort-sharjah) city location and good facilities. Diving and snorkeling enthusiasts will enjoy Oceanic Khorfakkan Resort and Spa (www.oceanichotel.com) on the East Coast with a rich marine life. Sharjah hotels are cheaper than those in Dubai.
What to do in Sharjah: Museum of Islamic Civilization (www.islamicmuseum.ae) thousands of years of history on display. Souk Al Arsah, hidden away in Sharjah city’s oldest quarter, and Bait Al Naboodah, once home to a wealthy pearl trading family. The blue tiled Souk Al-Markazi (Central Souk) sumptuous gold jewelry, carpets, scarves etc;
The endangered Arabian leopard and other indigenous species roam in their natural habitat at Arabian Wildlife centre in Sharjah Desert Park which also contains a scary selection of locally trapped reptiles.
Where to stay in Dubai: Media Rotana, a upscale 5 star hotel offers 4 nights , flying with award winning Etihad from €999 pp ee www.sunway.ie or phone Sunway at 01.2886828. Add an extra €45 to fly ex Dublin with Emirates. Habtoor Grand Resort and Spa 4 nights B / B from 1015 per person sharing www.sunway.ie
What to do in Dubai: Ride the light railway which zooms overhead or take a jump on jump off bus to get your bearings.. Explore Al Boom Tourist Village, based on dhows and Dubai Creek. The Palm Island project just offshore has been dubbed the 8th wonder of the World, featuring The World, a series of 300 islands, some of which are still for sale! Get up early to watch the camel racing at Nad Al Sheba with hundreds of colorfully garbed camels racing against the futuristic Dubai skyline.
Further information for Dubai: see www.emirates.com, www.etihadairways.com and www.dubaitourism.ae for Dubai
Top Tip: Avoid the summer months and unbearable heat. Alcohol, served in hotels and western restaurants in Dubai is banned in Sharjah. Look for delicious local delicacies including Al Harees and Al Majboos, slow cooked lamb meat flavored with spices like cinnamon, saffron and turmeric.
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